Fattoria di Caspri
Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy
The goal at Fattoria di Caspri is to make the most natural wine possible, and winemaker Bertrand Habsiger meets that challenge emphatically, delivering pure and expressive wines. An Alsace native and former sommelier, Bertrand is known locally as Mr. Senza (Italian for “without”), referring to his absolutely non-interventionist approach. The extraordinary estate in the South Tuscan hills includes 7 hectares of olives and is surrounded by forests, which ensures protection for the 9 hectares of biodynamically farmed vineyards. Grapes are harvested by hand and spontaneously ferment in open neutral barrels. Aging for 10-22 months, unfined, unfiltered, zero sulfur added. Bertrand focuses on old vine Sangiovese, Cilegiolo and Trebbiano.
Bertrand lives his whole life and makes all his decisions using biodynamic principles and in accordance with the biodynamic calendar. He picked out the property for his Fattoria Di Caspri winery over 10 years ago, when he was commissioned by a friend to go to Italy and make the most natural wine possible. What does “the most natural wine possible” even mean? Easy answer: No synthetic chemicals in the vineyard. No added yeasts. No acidification. No filtering. No additives. Nothing put in, nothing taken out. Organic. Biodynamic.
Philosophy: Bertrand is deeply committed to biodynamic farming principles including dedicated use of the Maria Thun biodynamic calendar. Being able to predict what the weather will be like in the growing seasons helps him decide how to prune in the early spring which is critically important. Vineyard treatments include tisane (hot water with herbs) and decoction (cold water with extracts). Bertrand’s no-till method (no tools penetrate the earth more than 10cm) means the earth is not disturbed. The goal is to make wines with personality and enjoy them with natural food and good people.
Interesting discussion in the New York Times with Suzanne Syz of Caspri.
Our Selections
Fattoria di Caspri Rosso di Caspri IGP Toscana 2019
The 2019 Rosso di Caspri is 100% Sangiovese from biodynamic estate fruit planted to sandy soils with decomposed gneiss, alluvial soil, and clay. The grapes were macerated and fermented in 1500-liter conical wood tanks (80% whole cluster) for one month before being pressed and racked into stainless steel tanks (2/3rds) and back into the conical 1500-liter tanks where the wine remains for an additional 14 months before bottling.
Beautiful, deep red, almost mahogany in appearance. The nose is intense, with ripe, red berry fruit, hints of leather, earth, and spice. The palate is medium-bodied with excellent texture, a supple mouthfeel and soft tannins. This is the signature, flagship wine from Caspri.
13% Alcohol and less than 20ppm SO2. Altitude: 325-400m
Vineyard Age: 10-50 years. Demeter certified.
Fattoria di Caspri 'Luna Blu' IGP Toscana Bianco 2020
The Luna Blu is a remarkable skin contact wine that is made in tiny quantities each year. A blend of 50% Trebbiano and 50% Malvasia, macerated and fermented in 1500-liter conical wood tanks for one month. The juice is then racked off the skins and put into 600 liter oak barrels for one year before bottling. The grapes are biodynamically farmed from a small plot of sandy soils with decomposed gneiss, alluvial soils and clay.
Deep orange in color, the Luna Blu features a saturated nose of dried apricot, orange peel, nuts, and toasted bread. This is a full-bodied orange wine with excellent length and prominent tannins.
14% alcohol and less than 20ppm SO2. 40 year old vines. Demeter certified.
Fattoria di Caspri 'Vita Bella' IGT Toscana 2021
Vita Bella is a blend of 50% Cilegiolo and 50% Canaiolo, ranging in age between 15 and 50 years, and planted to soils consisting primarily of sand with decomposed gneiss as well as alluvial deposits and clay. The vineyards are fully biodynamic and treated only with 510 Demeter whey and herbal tea treatment. Grass is maintained between the rows in order to encourage bio-diversity and soil aeration
Fermentation was done without temperature control in tronconic oak then transferred to stainless steel tanks where it remained for six months. The resulting wine features a bouquet rich in red fruits. fresh mint, orange zest, and black pepper. On the palate, the wine is deep and rich with soft tannins and excellent freshness.
12% Alc and less than 20ppm SO2. Demeter certified.
Fattoria di Caspri Cilegiolo IGP Toscana 2022
Bertrand’s take on Cilegiolo somehow manages to capture the pure, red-fruited joy of the grape known as the “little cherry” while making it a Caspri wine. The nose features bright, red fruit notes with yes, hints of cherry but also strawberry and raspberry. The “Caspri-ness” comes through in the density of the aromas and a rich, umami quality that provide a base note to the bouquet. The aromatics are mirrored on the palate. Medium-bodied with bright, red fruits and a supple texture.
This is 100% Cilegiolo from biodynamic estate fruit planted to sandy soils with decomposed gneiss, alluvial soil, and clay. The grapes were macerated and fermented in 1500-liter conical wood tanks (80% whole cluster) for one month before being pressed and racked into stainless steel tanks where it was allowed to settle for three months before bottling.
12% Alcohol and less than 20ppm SO2. Altitude: 300 meters.
Vineyard Age: 10-60 years. Demeter certified.